paper tuning?

D

dplumlee12

Member
Dec 28, 2012
201
How many paper tune their bows?  and if so do you see a big difference in the performance of your bow?
I've heard some feedback from local archers that suggest that paper tuning is a waste of time? 
Seems logical to do but after doing some research on how to do it I ran into one post that said to make sure everything else was perfect including form before trying to paper tune....  Hard to know all they suggest knowing.
Any comments?
 
I paper tune, but wouldn't consider it a necessity.  I would compare it to bore sighting a rifle.  It is a good way to get you bow closer to shooting a little more accurate.  I like to shoot close and then back up to around 15 yds and see if my arrow is flying good further down range.  Some swear by it but not a must for me.
 
tuned bow a must,but IM not a big fan of paper tuning,there are better methods out there.You can pick what works for you but there are many videos on  youtube that are helpfull to many.
 
I have found that paper tuning is good for checking string nock placement, for high or low nock. Walk back tuning to adjust left and right setting for your rest.
Make certain the arrow is a proper match first.
 
I do paper tune my bow when i first set it up with new rest. I haven't tried any of the other methods. I have never noticed any performance added, other than the arrow not porpoising or fishtailing and shooting broadheads is a lot less frustrating.
 
X2
nclonghunter said:
I have found that paper tuning is good for checking string nock placement, for high or low nock. Walk back tuning to adjust left and right setting for your rest.
Make certain the arrow is a proper match first.
Click to expand...
 
Paper tuning will definately show a few things.  One being how well your bow is tuned, or how well you are not tuned.  If you shoot 5 shots and they all tear differently, maybe its not all the bows fault.
 
I paper Tune to check nock placement and walk back tune for left and right it has always worked for me .
 
I paper tune my broadheads.  I like to see a bullet hole at 6 ft, 5 yards and 10 yards.  If the arrow flies straight at these distances I don't have any issues out to 100 yards. Like many have said paper tears are quite often due to form and no matter how much you try to adjust the rest and nocking point sometimes you just can't get it to shoot straight.  I've talked with the pro at my local shop and he hates papertuning customers bows because no matter how well he tunes the bow the customers usually can't shoot without a tear because of their form. 
 
I always start off with paper, then I column tune. I finish off with broadhead tuning. Paper tuning gives you a good starting point.



 
I might paper tune a new set up if i see a problem in arrow flight after the initial set-up. 


I then might do a walk back tune if i see some left and right accuracy issues at longer distances.


But I will ALWAYS do a broadhead tune before I take to the woods!
 
Some may tune to get their broadhead arrows to shoot a good group and then re-sight.
I tune to get the BH and FP arrows to shoot to the same point of impact. (don't know what i did here to change the type)

Assuming yours do not, start with small rest adjustments by moving the rest in the direction that would move the broadhead group towards the field tip group. That is, if your BH arrows hit to the right of the FT arrows, move your rest to the left. This also applies to the vertical adjustments.
Once you get set at 20 yds keep moving back and make adjustments until you are satisfied at all yardages.
Slight sight adjustments will be made during the process but not as much as you might think.


In the end, you CAN get the two to shoot the same. It works for me. Good luck.




 
Thanks Horseshoe, I also have tuned my bow as you described. I was able to get both BH and FT to hit together. Some guys just move the sights to get the BH hitting on the dot and do not worry about the FT grouping with BH. I personaly do not feel the bow is properly tuned unless they hit together.
On another note, I shoot four-4" Duravanes and both my BH and FT hit exactly together out to 50 yards (furthest I have tried) after tuning as you described. I recently tried four-3" fusion vanes on the same arrow and same BH, and the BH hit 4-5 inches right from my FT. Just changing the vanes made the arrow BH and FT impact change. This just showed me that once you get it tuned for a specific arrow combination, do not change anything, or you must re-tune.
 
Yup, you always have to keep up with the changes on your bow and make adjustments whenever needed!


And, nclonghunter, I totally agree with you that a bow tuned this way is the ultimate way to finish tuning a hunting bow! How can you beat it?





 
Didn't mean to hijack the thread...just the way it went.  :-\


By the way, a good paper tune usually gets you to the BH tune very quickly, sometimes no further adjustments need to be made!
 
I have done bare shaft paper tuning on initial setup of all my bows, I  had a book from 20 years ago on tuning compound bows by Larry Wise that was what he recommended.  it has worked well for me. maybe there are newer methods, but this has eliminated the need for walk back tuning, and broadhead tuning for me.
I think the bare shaft eliminates all potential fletch interference, and gets the nockset/rest combination where it should be. If there are no issues with fletching interference, arrow flight is optimal after bare shaft paper tuning.
 
Yup, lots of ways to get er done! I just like the last check of making sure the broadheads and fieldpoints shoot the same. I'm just a little anal that way! 

 
Horseshoe, I am with you on always checking broadhead point of impact against field tip point of impact. I don't take that for granted.
 
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