If you were brand new...

[cohunter14]

I have long contemplated getting into archery hunting, but have never pulled the trigger. I know a lot of learning would be involved along with a lot of money, so that has kind of kept me away. However, if you were to give any newbie some tips on a first setup for archery, what would they be? How would you go about getting started and what would a potential budget look like? Give me as basic as possible in case someone reading this has no clue about archery. Not me, of course. I\'m asking for a friend... :shh:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[americanbwana]

Avoid buying all the stuff being pushed on various forum sites. You don\'t need a platinum tipped heat seeking patriot arrow.

Use what you already have.

Get a used bow that works for you. The bow along with the arrows, release, rest, sight and broad heads will be the major expense. This is a good time of year to look for last years models at the big box stores. I think my first new bow cost about $500.

Does your friend live near Denver? Full rut archery out by Elizabeth will allow you to put a bow on layaway, but still shoot it at their shop.

I still have that first bow. I might be able to help your friend out. I may have old arrows you can try out also

AB

 

[cohunter14]

Hahaha, well I may have gone too far with the \'friend\' comment. It is me who is actually considering it, but I just don\'t know the first thing about bows. I got a compound when I was maybe 8 years old and shot that for fun growing up, but it was just a basic kids setup, so no bells or whistles. It is something that I am in no hurry on, especially since my entire hunting group use rifles. But the thought of a screaming bull inside of 50 yards peeks my interest. I have scouted around the rutt before and it does facinate me.

 

[Buglemaster]

Derek, search the classifieds on archerytalk.com

I\'ll bet you could get a good,ready to go compound (loaded) for around $500
What you need to know before you look is your draw length & what poundage bow you think you can handle. If your interested, I have an older Mathews fully loaded I\'m thinking of selling. It\'s a great bow & served me well before I got a newer model. Other than the stick & strings all you really need is some camo & your all set. Pm me if your interested or just need a little info. I know others here would be more than happy to help you out also.

 

[Colorado_Lew]

I would suggest that you first stop at a pro shop.
Get your draw length measured, and try out as many different bow make and models as you can.
For the beginner the longer ATA bows will be a little more forgiving than the short ATA bows that are the rage these days.
Don\'t over bow yourself, no need to have an 80lb or higher draw weight.
Take a shooting lesson at the pro shop.
It is better to start off correctly in archery and not have to unlearn bad habits down the road!
Be prepared for sticker shock!! A new setup can run you over 1000.00
Used bows or last year models can be had at bargain prices sometimes. Used will not have any warranty.
Archery is addicting! Shoot some league or 3D when you get dialed in.

 

[Colorado_Lew]

I would also add, don\'t overlook traditional bows.

 

[Zpd307]

don\'t forget craigslist or ebay. my buddy bought his first bow off of cl, it was only a year old. I got my bow from ebay, it was only two years old. both at really good deals. an archery shop will help you learn how to shoot. I bought my wife a used bow and took it in to get it outfitted to her, they spent some time on the range to help her with her shooting.

 

[cnelk]

Derek
All good info above.

First and foremost, determine what eye is dominant

I would recommend a brace height no less than 7in.
It may be a bit slower but much more forgiving on form imperfections

Get a good release - Scott / True Ball are solid names

The starting budget of $500 is a good one. But remember that it wont stop there :mrgreen:

 

[wvarcher]

Warning...Archery is addictive...you may never gun hunt again!

 

[elky McElkerson]

the safest way to go down a slippery slope is feet first.

best advice?

AND DONT ever pay for a bow unless you can get a bullet hole in paper..bare minimum. i learned over the years, some bows are lemons. nothing wrong with the company, but the odds are that every company will let an occasional turd out the door. and by paper tune, i mean it shoots an arrow out straight, with the bow set in the \"middle\". arrow square and plumb, thru the berger hole, nock point close to 90 degrees off the string, arrow spined in the middle of the charts...

my previous bow was NOT good. it was a lemon. the shop had to push my arrow rest all the way inside..so it was not parallel with my stablizer. not even close! it was so far inside, my bowsight was cut in half visually by the bow riser itself..i didnt know any better and took it home. paid for it. i couldnt get it to paper tune so i went back. the kid told me..you have to grip it like this..he wanted me to torque the bow alittle.

i should have kicked him in the nuts right there, and asked for my money back..or a new bow. (long story on what the actual problem was..some other day)

the cost of me chasing a decent broadhead arrow shot probably added $400 to the top of the bow. i went from bowshop to bowshop trying to fix the problem. everybody charged me for their time cuz i didnt buy the bow there..it was awful.

 

[Bob Frapples]

All sound advice, definitely go by archery shop and find out your draw length first, that will save time later if you go used route, Here is a link that will get you close.
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"http://soleadventure.com/2014/01/4-ways-that-archers-can-measure-their-draw-length/\">http://soleadventure.com/2014/01/4-ways ... aw-length/</a><!-- m -->

The other thing is draw weight, generally speaking most bows draw weight are adjustable around 10# so you will need to know you comfortable range. Knowing these two criteria will eliminate a lot of bows to even consider.

Personally I\'d recommend try to get a bow no older than 5-6 years old.

 

[Zpd307]

the safest way to go down a slippery slope is feet first.

best advice?

AND DONT ever pay for a bow unless you can get a bullet hole in paper..bare minimum. i learned over the years, some bows are lemons. nothing wrong with the company, but the odds are that every company will let an occasional turd out the door. and by paper tune, i mean it shoots an arrow out straight, with the bow set in the \"middle\". arrow square and plumb, thru the berger hole, nock point close to 90 degrees off the string, arrow spined in the middle of the charts...

my previous bow was NOT good. it was a lemon. the shop had to push my arrow rest all the way inside..so it was not parallel with my stablizer. not even close! it was so far inside, my bowsight was cut in half visually by the bow riser itself..i didnt know any better and took it home. paid for it. i couldnt get it to paper tune so i went back. the kid told me..you have to grip it like this..he wanted me to torque the bow alittle.

i should have kicked him in the nuts right there, and asked for my money back..or a new bow. (long story on what the actual problem was..some other day)

the cost of me chasing a decent broadhead arrow shot probably added $400 to the top of the bow. i went from bowshop to bowshop trying to fix the problem. everybody charged me for their time cuz i didnt buy the bow there..it was awful.

wow!!!! sorry to hear that. I would have never thought a bow maker could make something that crappy!!!

 

[WW]

Great answers everyone! Another thing is, you don\'t have to own the newest thing out there. My old bow is 10 years old and it\'s a keeper.

I\'ve even seen good bows at pawn shops and yard sales. But if you decide to buy a used one, be sure to have someone that is knowledgable to look it over for you. And like someone else has stated, most compound bows are draw length specific.

And you are in the right place for good advice here on ElkMentors. A lot of these guys are good bow mechanics and tuners as well as excellent elk bowhunters.

 

[Deertick]

Like WW said -- you don\'t need the newest stuff.

Remember, the \"new\" stuff in 2009 was \"the best ever\" at the time, and there were people who were pretty dang glad to get it! None of that \"greatness\" went away just because a few years came and went.

 

[mainebrdr]

Cohunter, my suggestion would be to hook up with a friend that bowhunts or someone else close to you. You can learn a lot of the important aspects in an afternoon of talking and shooting. I would do that before I would buy anything.

Also I would say you could get on the ground floor more cheaply than many people realize. You could find a good bow like Ross cardiac in the neighborhood of 200 bucks and a dozen descent arrows for 80. Throw in a good release from ebay for 30 and together with some smaller items you are ready to go for 350 bucks! Then if it turns out to be something that doesn\'t thrill you (not a big chance of that), you are not in the dog house with the wife for a month!