Trail Camera Questions

Big Country

New member
Aug 29, 2013
85
Hey guys, looking for some help/suggestions.  I received a new trail camera for Christmas this year and just looking for advice or recommendations from those who have used them before.  While I'm not new to elk hunting, I am to trail cameras. 

There are a ton of settings for both picture and video on mine, although I'm not really interested in the video yet.  What camera settings are people using?  Currently, I have mine set to take a single picture every ten seconds with movement but I feel like I could be missing other animals if they are simply passing by, should I change to multiple photos with each shot?  Any advice on mounting or locations? Sensitivity settings? 

What about cable locks? Master lock seems to make a pretty good one but haven't actually put my hands on one?  Is it worth buying a metal box, most reviews I saw said they were bear proof but not people (the predator I'm most worried about) proof.  Thanks in advance for your help.
 
cameras are always at risk of being stolen we just do what we can to keep them safe. most important things i have learned is the really need to face north or south the sun shining in them makes for strange goings on. i like to hang them higher than recommended(belly button height for me at 6'2") and use a machete to clear out a good area in front free from weeds blowing grass and leaves just in case. 
 
Wow, I was hanging mine much higher.  I figured I could get some good shots of animals moving through if I could see them a little further back.  The north/south suggestion is great.  Last weekend when I pulled my camera the sun was just coming up and beaming through the trees.  Thanks for the help.  Anyone else have any suggestions or use them?
 
No people problems here, but bears love to play with them especially if they can reach them on all fours.  So we usually go minimum of the hightest we can reach and angle them down.  Doesn't stop the abuse, but they don't rip them off the tree like when they are lower.
 
I always put my camera's in a security box and lag bolt it to the tree just in case some dummy wants to come take my camera.  Mine are usually head high with a stick behind them for angle.  Its just your preference what you want to do or use.
 
I carve my name and phone number in mine( figure they may not steal it to sell it that way) I also don't lock my camera shut, people always break your camera to take the SD card, I would rather them just take my card than break the camera. Insid I have a card with my name and phone number saying I would be more than glad to share pics with them if they would like, I haven't had one stolen since. Good luck and have fun!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
In high risk areas I climb my butt as high up a sketchy tree as possible. Then I lock it to the tree with an old cable snare. So far so good. Probably not a good idea for most people to try but I figure if they can get up the tree to get it then more power to them.


Once it's up there a good ways I just angle it down like others have said. Pictures have been turning out great so far! I'll echo the North / South placement. Also make sure the think about the brush in the area and make sure your camera won't be taking pictures of the grass in the breeze. I always have my camera on multiple shot bursts personally. I would rather replace the batteries more often then risk missing a monster bull that might quickly pass by.
 
Bigcountry, I'll try to answer your questions. I don't want to miss anything, so I set my to take 3 photos for each motion detection, and I set the interval between triggers from 5 to 10 seconds, and I use a minimum of 8 GB SD cards. By taking 3 photos per trigger, you are more likely to get multiple angles of the better bulls. and miss fewer animals if they are just moving through the area.  I have found that the most productive locations are wallows, seeps, and springs. Many bulls are shy and don't like open areas, so if you find a wallow if a fairly tight spot, surrounded by trees, you'll get bulls sneeking in mid day to wallow while the cows are bedded. I do not use any "field scan" settings. These are designed to take a photo at pre determined intervals without being triggered. This setting is great for time lapse photos of a big field where animals move through out of trigger range, but not helpful in tight quarters around elk wallows.  I have the steel security/bear boxes on mine. I bolt the box to the tree with 3 1/2-4" lag bolts, lock the camera in the box, then put a Master Python cable lock through the box, camera, and around the tree several times. Anyone with a pry bar, bolt cutters, or a chain saw could steal the cameras, but my set ups are pretty remote, hidden, and out of the way. I haven't had any issues yet, knock on wood.  Before using the boxes, I had elk and bear messing with the cameras, and moving them from where I had pointed them. Now my cameras stay put, but I occasionally get nose and lip prints on my lenses and motion sensors.  Point your cameras north or south preferably to avoid sun flare. if positioning on a trail, point it up or down the trail, not directly perpendicular, giving the camera more time to respond and take photos. Remove any branches, brush, or grasses that will move in the wind. You'll make a few mistakes, but with a little experience, you'll learn what it takes to make a good trail cam setup. Good luck and post up some photos when you start getting some!
 
Thanks for all the help.  Sounds like I need to invest in the metal box and maybe use lag bolts as well.  I  hunt in remote places but understand animals mess with them too.  Great pics!
 

Members online

No members online now.

Latest posts

Back
Top