Arrow and Broadhead

[Ivar88]

I have never really been the guy digging into the science of the arrow and broadhead but I have recently started asking myself some questions and figured this would be a good place to start.

Which of you prefer a lighter faster arrow over a heavy hitter, or vice versa? Why?
In your experience, is the extra 25gr on a 125gr BH that drastic over the 100gr?
Would you recommend a brass insert versus aluminum?

I am shooting a Hoyt Faktor Turbo 28" draw with a 437gr arrow (125gr BH) I am looking at an all around arrow and broadhead for whitetail, mule deer and elk. What are your thoughts? What do you look for on your set up?

 

[DTP]

I'm not someone puts as much thought into arrow setups and speed as some of the others out there.

Mine is based off trial & error and efficiency.

I killed my first two elk with 398 gr arrow setup. (XT Hunter 340s gold tips, 30", w/100 grain broadhead)
I found on both of the elk it just didn't seem like enough oomph to get full pass throughs if I hit a rib or two.

The next elk I killed was a 493 gr arrow setup. (XT Hunter 300s gold tips W/camo wrap, 29.5" w/125 grain broadhead)
I zipped through my elk like butter.

493 was very nice, but I wasn't a fan of the camo wraps that came on the XT hunters. So the last elk I shot was with a 440 gr setup. (XT Hunter 300s, 29.5" w/100 grain broadheads)
I hit both ribs and buried almost all of my arrow, but I did not have a pass through.

This next year I'll be running the same setup as last year, but w/125 gr broadheads instead of the 100s.

I am not a speed chaser, I prefer something that I feel has a better chance at a pass through. 

In all honesty, your set up could kill all of those animals that you mentioned.

 

[montanaelk31]

I'm finding that as time goes on, I prefer the heavier setup.  I shoot 470 grains (100 gr broadhead, FMJs and Luminocks) at 265 FPS and get 2 holes every time unless I hit offside shoulder. I think 430-500 is a great sweet spot for the game your chasing.  My elk have all been within 30yds.  Anything further than that, your going to range most of the time anyway so speed not a factor.  Heavier arrows make my bow quieter too.

 

[DTP]

Heavier arrows make my bow quieter too.

Completely forgot to mention this! So true  :upthumb:

 

[bryan m]

I really like the slim diameter Easton axis arrow with a sharp cut on contact head. Tune your bow and you'll get great penetration.

 

[bugleshootpack]

To have an arrow that is all encompassing of each situation you will likely want to stay with a moderate weight arrow. I lean towards the heavier end of arrows when hunting in timber which will you get you the extra punch for close encounters. Lighter arrows are better for more open situations when you are looking at shooting 50+ yards. Consult with your local bow shop and they should have individuals who can recommend you in the direction of what specific performance you are looking for.

 

[Ivar88]

To have an arrow that is all encompassing of each situation you will likely want to stay with a moderate weight arrow. I lean towards the heavier end of arrows when hunting in timber which will you get you the extra punch for close encounters. Lighter arrows are better for more open situations when you are looking at shooting 50+ yards. Consult with your local bow shop and they should have individuals who can recommend you in the direction of what specific performance you are looking for.

Its funny that you mentioned going to the local bow shop because I stopped in there the other day and the fella behind the counter acted like I was really burdening him by talking arrow weight and paper tuning. I was surprised because the small mom and pop shops are usually the best to get help from.

 

[jvanhoy]

To have an arrow that is all encompassing of each situation you will likely want to stay with a moderate weight arrow. I lean towards the heavier end of arrows when hunting in timber which will you get you the extra punch for close encounters. Lighter arrows are better for more open situations when you are looking at shooting 50+ yards. Consult with your local bow shop and they should have individuals who can recommend you in the direction of what specific performance you are looking for.

Its funny that you mentioned going to the local bow shop because I stopped in there the other day and the fella behind the counter acted like I was really burdening him by talking arrow weight and paper tuning. I was surprised because the small mom and pop shops are usually the best to get help from.

In my neck of the woods its hard to find a good bow shop. I just can't hand my bow across the counter to some kid thas i can tell has no clue. My buddy at work built a bow press and we do all our work at his house. I know there some great ones out there but not everywhere has one.

 

[bugleshootpack]

To have an arrow that is all encompassing of each situation you will likely want to stay with a moderate weight arrow. I lean towards the heavier end of arrows when hunting in timber which will you get you the extra punch for close encounters. Lighter arrows are better for more open situations when you are looking at shooting 50+ yards. Consult with your local bow shop and they should have individuals who can recommend you in the direction of what specific performance you are looking for.

Its funny that you mentioned going to the local bow shop because I stopped in there the other day and the fella behind the counter acted like I was really burdening him by talking arrow weight and paper tuning. I was surprised because the small mom and pop shops are usually the best to get help from.

Agreed, they are usually good about being personable with folks that visit. Could try visiting a different day and possibly get a different bow tech that would be more willing to work with you? Even calling an arrow manufacturers customer support line they may get you in touch with someone who can provide details on the differences between their arrow models and how they perform.

 

[sn.outdoors]

Well, since we have the same bow and draw length, I think I can help out a bit. I've shot all sorts of arrow combinations and have been able to tune each one of them to fly perfectly. (Having your own bow press and learning how to tune is key)

The last 2 years I've shot .300 spine Black Eagle Rampages 28.5" with 75gr inserts and 100gr single bevel heads. Total weight is 440ish grains. It's zipped through a few animals over the last few years. No issues at all.

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]2 years ago I was flinging the same setup but an Easton Axis that weighed 500ish. It didn't stop for anything. Had full length penetration on a 150lb WI doe. She was 35yds, turned a little at the shot, the arrow entered just in front of her shoulder, and exited below her opposite side pelvis. [/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]The other setup I'm currently tinkering with is a 27" 340 Easton Axis with 75gr insert and the same broadhead. Weighs about 460gr. The softer spine seems to be less finicky to tune, and flies a little better at long ranges, which is the only reason I'm tinkering with it.

I really don't think you'll notice much difference in terminal performance if you're in the 400-500gr range, as long as your bow is tuned properly. Just understand that different setups will have different dynamic spines, which will require slight tuning adjustments. [/font]

 

[kabushnell]

Good comments on here.  Been looking into the same changes to my arrow set up this year.  Looking to increase weight some and adding it up front.  In researching more heavy setup with more F.O.C. I think will benefit in the elk woods

 

[Aiaquinta]

I keep going back and forth between 6mm FMj?s and 5mm axis arrows with 3? max stealth vanes. I can?t tell what I like more. They come out to the same weight so my pin  gap is the same and both steer fixed blades really well. If there is a difference in penetration it?s negligble. I?d definitely recommend either setup.