I\'ve been shooting Muzzys for years and never had a problem with them. They were shooting the same as my FPs out to 30. Last night I checked them out to 50. They would not group. I\'m thinking I may change and was looking at SlickTricks. Anybody have any experience with them? I know my FOC is probably a little light but I just had my bow tuned through paper last week and it\'s shooting bullet holes. This was the first time I have ever shot a broad head past 30, never attempt shots past 30 when WT hunting around here. I won\'t shoot a mechanical, just know too many people with bad experiences. It\'s aweful late in the game to make a switch but I don\'t think I have a choice. I shoot a Bowtech Insanity CPXL, 61#, 28 DL, arrow length 29\" (Easton Axis 400), arrow weight 430 grain with BH. I\'m not a bow geek but my buddy owns a bowshop and has been tuning my bows for years. He thinks my setup is fine, I believe my problem has to the BH. I\'ll take any suggestions, thoughts :eh:
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Broadhead Question
- Thread starter razorback
- Start date
Before you replace your broadheads, lets check your rest and arrows. I have never found paper tuning with field points to be adequate for broadheads. In fact I don\'t think much of paper tuning, even though it is widely used.
Are your broadheads hitting in one area, i.e. low left or to the right? Are they scattering all over? If they are scattered, do your arrows have a good helical fletch or are they straight fletched.
Are your broadheads hitting in one area, i.e. low left or to the right? Are they scattering all over? If they are scattered, do your arrows have a good helical fletch or are they straight fletched.
timberland
New member
- Aug 27, 2015
- 471
Before a wrench touches your bow, spin test your broadheads. Aluminum ferrule BH will start to bend when you practice with them. The more you shoot, the more they bend. And if you are switching BH from arrow to arrow you won\'t know which way is up. I liken it to putting the tip of the BH in a vise and tapping it with a hammer. You won\'t see the bend, but after ten or 20 or 50 taps you will. Once the BH is bent, throw it away.
Find a buddy that shoots a steel broadhead and try his. Or take a new one out of the package and try it. Try to get some kind of baseline consistency. Also, I have seen cheaper BH come bent (or not made straight) right out of the package.
Just read your last post. YOU NEED HELICAL ON YOUR FLETCHING!!! Your broadheads are steering your arrow. Best football passes are spirals.
Find a buddy that shoots a steel broadhead and try his. Or take a new one out of the package and try it. Try to get some kind of baseline consistency. Also, I have seen cheaper BH come bent (or not made straight) right out of the package.
Just read your last post. YOU NEED HELICAL ON YOUR FLETCHING!!! Your broadheads are steering your arrow. Best football passes are spirals.
You know the Muzzy\'s I\'m shooting are old. I\'ve had them a long time was just going to put new blades in them before I leave. That\'s what I usually do before deer season. It\'s cheap and they always work and most of my shots are 20 yards and less. I\'m thinking some of these broadheads may have been shot too many times and fletches should be a helical for the longer distances. I should have thought about all of this a lot sooner than 8 August. Until last night I was very confident with my bow. Probably shooting better than I ever have but those broadheads were all over the place while the FPs were on the money.
I have sat here and thought about this all day. I have few other broad heads I will try when I get home and obviously check my Muzzys really close. I never really gave any thought to them bending. I believe I will have all of my arrows re-fletched, I have a jig but at home but my son is the one who usually does the fletching. I shoot the long ones, not the blazer type. Do you guys have a preference for shooting long range? If I should have to switch broadheads, the slicktricks are what I\'m leaning towards. They are steel and most reviews say they fly very well. What do you guys shoot?
I switched from Muzzy to SlickTricks a few years ago.
Love them. Wont shoot anything else out of my compound
If your POI is not exactly as your field points, just read this and get them to:
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"http://slicktrick.net/node/36\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">http://slicktrick.net/node/36</a><!-- m -->
TUNING
People who say fixed heads won?t fly with fieldpoints haven?t experienced a decent tune. Paper tuning may or may not be a decent tune, same with laser. Broadhead tuning is the way to go, if broadheads hit with fieldpoints your arrows are coming out of the bow straight and you have the good tune you want. And not a big deal to achieve if you follow some simple steps. Good tune means whatever head you shoot you will be more accurate with maximum penetration, and you can practice with fieldpoints on any target. SLICK TRICKS have the reputation of great flight because of superior aerodynamics which makes them more forgiving of tune and form.
Now to the process of tuning. A good tune simply means the arrow is coming out of the bow straight, arrow neither pointing left or right or up or down. FOR MOST PEOPLE getting a good tune is simply a matter of CENTERSHOT and PROPER SPINE. First though, quick check of some easy basics.
Use helical or offset, not straight vanes. Blazers or longer vanes are fine.
Be sure broadheads spin on arrows. This simply means putting the tip of the arrow on a table and spinning it like a top to see if there is wobble. TRICKS are machined super precise with a T.I.R. of .001, due to advertising people think MIM heads since they are molded they are straighter, but they are .002. And the structure of machined steel is more consistent and dependable on bone. If you tighten down a TRICK and it doesn?t spin, you can turn it a tad and tighten down again and it will spin as the washer seats better. If they still don?t spin check to see that the insert is in the arrow straight.
Torquing the bow. You won?t get good arrow flight torquing, which means you won?t get broadheads and fieldpoints to hit together. Also, you will lose penetration. Shoot with a loose grip, and follow through. Hold the bow on target a second after the arrow hits it.
Fletch contact. Blazers can tick a drop away or cable and you not be aware of it. Put lipstick on the vane and check.
CENTER SHOT
Simply put, move your rest in the direction the fieldpoints are from the broadheads. With arrows coming out of the bow at an angle wind will push broadheads more than it pushes fieldpoints. As you move the rest in the direction of straighter arrow flight both fieldpoint and broadhead impact will move, but the broadheads will be closer to the fieldpoints. For example, suppose your broadheads hit low and to the right of the fieldpoint. First, fix the elevation by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoints, in this case raise the rest slightly until both fieldpoints and broadheads are the same height. Next, fix he horizontal by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoint, in this case move the rest slightly left until both fieldpionts and broadheads merge to the same spot. When your rest is CENTER SHOT both fieldpoints and broadheads will impact the same spot. Now, as the last step, simply move your sight to the spot the fieldpoints and broadheads hit.
SPINE
IF YOU DON?T GET THEM TOGETHER THEN SPINE MIGHT BE OFF. If broadheads are hitting to the right of fieldpoints you have a WEAK spine. You need a STIFFER spined arrow. The most common error is trying to tune a weak spined arrow. Stop your misery and get some stiffer spined arrows and it?s like magic. Broadheads hitting to the left of fieldpoints (STIFF SPINE) need a weaker spined arrow.
SOLUTIONS: Weak spine lower poundage, less juice puts less stress on arrow effectively making it act stiffer. Stiff spine increase poundage, more juice puts more stress on arrow effectivelymaking it act weaker spined.
Turn your limb bolts counter clockwise 2-4 turns and see if broadheads and fieldpoints come together. If they do you may leave your bow there, or turn your limb bolts back and get arrows with greater spine. Or, turn your limb bolts clockwise, if that works to bring your broadheads and fieldpoints together leave your bow there or turn your limb bolts back and get weaker spined arrows.
If your spine is weak you can go with a lighter broadhead, which will effectively stiffen your spine since you have less weight wiggling. Stiff spine eavier broadhead.
You can cut your arrows shorter and effectively stiffen the spine, or lengthen for weaker spine. Most tend to want the arrow as close to the rest as possible so they discount this option however.
Spine arrow charts: These are general guesstimates. Reason being there is a great range of cam energy, ranging from a soft wheel cam all the way to your 350fps super hard cams. One guy?s hard cam may not be the same as another guy?s hard cam. The charts have a range of poundage, and different cams have a range of energy. If you have a hot bow you could need a spine stiffer than the chart reads.
If borderline or doubtful, try the stiffer arrow.
The above gets the great majority tuned, unless your nock point is not traveling straight. If your idler wheel is leaning, use the harness to straighten. Or check to see cams are timed.
Doing the above your bow should be tuned so your broadheads and fieldpoints hit together. You are now a more accurate, confident and deadly bowhunter getting maximum penetration and performance from your bow, arrow and broadhead.
Love them. Wont shoot anything else out of my compound
If your POI is not exactly as your field points, just read this and get them to:
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"http://slicktrick.net/node/36\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">http://slicktrick.net/node/36</a><!-- m -->
TUNING
People who say fixed heads won?t fly with fieldpoints haven?t experienced a decent tune. Paper tuning may or may not be a decent tune, same with laser. Broadhead tuning is the way to go, if broadheads hit with fieldpoints your arrows are coming out of the bow straight and you have the good tune you want. And not a big deal to achieve if you follow some simple steps. Good tune means whatever head you shoot you will be more accurate with maximum penetration, and you can practice with fieldpoints on any target. SLICK TRICKS have the reputation of great flight because of superior aerodynamics which makes them more forgiving of tune and form.
Now to the process of tuning. A good tune simply means the arrow is coming out of the bow straight, arrow neither pointing left or right or up or down. FOR MOST PEOPLE getting a good tune is simply a matter of CENTERSHOT and PROPER SPINE. First though, quick check of some easy basics.
Use helical or offset, not straight vanes. Blazers or longer vanes are fine.
Be sure broadheads spin on arrows. This simply means putting the tip of the arrow on a table and spinning it like a top to see if there is wobble. TRICKS are machined super precise with a T.I.R. of .001, due to advertising people think MIM heads since they are molded they are straighter, but they are .002. And the structure of machined steel is more consistent and dependable on bone. If you tighten down a TRICK and it doesn?t spin, you can turn it a tad and tighten down again and it will spin as the washer seats better. If they still don?t spin check to see that the insert is in the arrow straight.
Torquing the bow. You won?t get good arrow flight torquing, which means you won?t get broadheads and fieldpoints to hit together. Also, you will lose penetration. Shoot with a loose grip, and follow through. Hold the bow on target a second after the arrow hits it.
Fletch contact. Blazers can tick a drop away or cable and you not be aware of it. Put lipstick on the vane and check.
CENTER SHOT
Simply put, move your rest in the direction the fieldpoints are from the broadheads. With arrows coming out of the bow at an angle wind will push broadheads more than it pushes fieldpoints. As you move the rest in the direction of straighter arrow flight both fieldpoint and broadhead impact will move, but the broadheads will be closer to the fieldpoints. For example, suppose your broadheads hit low and to the right of the fieldpoint. First, fix the elevation by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoints, in this case raise the rest slightly until both fieldpoints and broadheads are the same height. Next, fix he horizontal by moving the rest in the direction the broadhead needs to go toward the fieldpoint, in this case move the rest slightly left until both fieldpionts and broadheads merge to the same spot. When your rest is CENTER SHOT both fieldpoints and broadheads will impact the same spot. Now, as the last step, simply move your sight to the spot the fieldpoints and broadheads hit.
SPINE
IF YOU DON?T GET THEM TOGETHER THEN SPINE MIGHT BE OFF. If broadheads are hitting to the right of fieldpoints you have a WEAK spine. You need a STIFFER spined arrow. The most common error is trying to tune a weak spined arrow. Stop your misery and get some stiffer spined arrows and it?s like magic. Broadheads hitting to the left of fieldpoints (STIFF SPINE) need a weaker spined arrow.
SOLUTIONS: Weak spine lower poundage, less juice puts less stress on arrow effectively making it act stiffer. Stiff spine increase poundage, more juice puts more stress on arrow effectivelymaking it act weaker spined.
Turn your limb bolts counter clockwise 2-4 turns and see if broadheads and fieldpoints come together. If they do you may leave your bow there, or turn your limb bolts back and get arrows with greater spine. Or, turn your limb bolts clockwise, if that works to bring your broadheads and fieldpoints together leave your bow there or turn your limb bolts back and get weaker spined arrows.
If your spine is weak you can go with a lighter broadhead, which will effectively stiffen your spine since you have less weight wiggling. Stiff spine eavier broadhead.
You can cut your arrows shorter and effectively stiffen the spine, or lengthen for weaker spine. Most tend to want the arrow as close to the rest as possible so they discount this option however.
Spine arrow charts: These are general guesstimates. Reason being there is a great range of cam energy, ranging from a soft wheel cam all the way to your 350fps super hard cams. One guy?s hard cam may not be the same as another guy?s hard cam. The charts have a range of poundage, and different cams have a range of energy. If you have a hot bow you could need a spine stiffer than the chart reads.
If borderline or doubtful, try the stiffer arrow.
The above gets the great majority tuned, unless your nock point is not traveling straight. If your idler wheel is leaning, use the harness to straighten. Or check to see cams are timed.
Doing the above your bow should be tuned so your broadheads and fieldpoints hit together. You are now a more accurate, confident and deadly bowhunter getting maximum penetration and performance from your bow, arrow and broadhead.
It never really occurred to me until last night that I needed to check broadhead flight at 50 yards. Every year I have the same routine, practice with FPs, screw on a Muzzy shoot a 20 and then a 30 (ususally good) and same POI and just go to the woods. I thought I was ready for Colorado up until last night. I guess a rookie mistake. I\'ll get it fixed. I never even thought about checking those Muzzys for straightness. I have had them for a long time. I have always been a fan of them but who wouldn\'t be if you only have to shoot 20 yards through a WT. I am just a touch concerned that going to the heavier stiffer arrow may have little impact though. Do most elk hunters shoot helicals? I don\'t see many guys around here doing that for WTs.
I hope the fletching fixes it. I did spin some of those Muzzys. I believe some may have seen their better days, they weren\'t straight. I also shot some of my son\'s BHs. They did no better but my FPs continued to be on. I\'ll work on helicals with my jig or have a bow shop to do them. After researching the slick tricks I might try a pack of them. They\'re made an hour south of me.
Razor, I went from 100 gr. Muzzys to Slick Tricks 4 years ago and and it was not just a good switch but a very easy one! Buy one pack and try them and I think you will love the results. I shoot the Viper Tricks and they group exactly like my field tips out to 60 yds. which is all the farther I shoot broadheads. Actually I usually group them tighter than field tips but that is probably because I\'m concentrating more. I always tune my own bows and I\'m no guru so they about have to be forgiving!
Buglemaster
New member
- Aug 25, 2017
- 334
Everything seems to have already been mentioned, but thought I would throw in my 2 penny\'s. Tuning is always an issue first . Then look closely at your grip. Just a little torque on your grip will make things go south at longer distances in a hurry. It\'s amazing how much a broad head will plane with just a little torque in your grip. Most heads today are pretty good from the package, but since I starter shooting slick tricks there just hasn\'t been any reason at all for me to look at any other head. That solid Steele ferrule sold me & they fly terrific at all ranges if I do my part. Viper tricks rule!
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw&hd=1\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw&hd=1</a><!-- m -->
Sometimes it\'s easier to see how it\'s done rather than someone telling you about how to do it.
Sometimes it\'s easier to see how it\'s done rather than someone telling you about how to do it.
