I am at my wits end trying to get my broadheads to shoot the same as my field points. Everything I try doesn\'t seem to do any good. The broadheads are consistently shooting 3-4\" to the right. I have moved the rest from a little to a lot and just cannot get them to group together. I\'m to the point that I\'m just going to re-sight in with my broadheads and call it good. Anybody have any advice on what I should try?
Broadhead tuning help
- Thread starter Wake26
- Start date
iccyman001
New member
- Apr 30, 2014
- 5,489
Have you paper tuned it to see if your bow is \"tuned\"?
iccyman001
New member
- Apr 30, 2014
- 5,489
Pike.... I am going through the same thing.
I jumped from righty to lefty this year and when I through broad heads on a few days ago I was hitting left.
This was after my broad heads were grouping super well....bareshafts were connecting with my fletched arrows...etc
I got frustrated and checked my paper tune. After I minor adjustment it was dead on, but I still shot left... it\'s because it was me!
I found that when I shot my bow wasn\'t perfectly level. Once I slowed down and worked on that form and keeping it perfectly level, then I started killing it.
Fixed broad heads show our flaws extremely well. I am not saying that it\'s you...it very well could be your bow.
I jumped from righty to lefty this year and when I through broad heads on a few days ago I was hitting left.
This was after my broad heads were grouping super well....bareshafts were connecting with my fletched arrows...etc
I got frustrated and checked my paper tune. After I minor adjustment it was dead on, but I still shot left... it\'s because it was me!
I found that when I shot my bow wasn\'t perfectly level. Once I slowed down and worked on that form and keeping it perfectly level, then I started killing it.
Fixed broad heads show our flaws extremely well. I am not saying that it\'s you...it very well could be your bow.
cohunter14
Administrator
- Jul 10, 2017
- 5,325
Couple other ideas: contact with the rest of your grip. My grip caused my arrows to do the same thing.
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Once your bow is tuned, try this method. Broadheads and fieldpoints should come right together.
Once your bow is tuned, try this method. Broadheads and fieldpoints should come right together.
Found some interesting things out last night. Otcwill had it right. Went over to cnelks to shoot and see if we could get the bow tuned a little better. We started off trying to paper tune the bow but it didn\'t take long to figure out that there was something wrong with the bow itself. After giving it a good try both cnelk and I decided that I better take the bow to the local bow shop and let them look at the bow to see if they could find the problem. When I told the bow shop what I was doing and the problems that I was having the owner took my bow, looks at it and with a smile and says \" let me guess your broadheads were shooting to the right so you moved your rest and nothing changed\'\'. Yep that was my problem. This is what the owner of the shop told me about the Hoyt bows and tuning them for broadheads. The Hoyt rest needs to be in the center position ( I think it was 13/16 off the riser) it is a big no no to move the rest to paper tune the Hoyts. Yoke tuning is the way you have to tune them for left or right paper tares. After about 40 min of paper tuning we finally had my bow shooting bullets through the paper. Here is another interesting thing he had me try, I shoot 70lbs with a 27in Goldtip xt pro 340 arrow. When I asked him if he thought I was shooting the right spined arrow he said that with a properly tuned bow you can shoot the upper and lower spined arrows with the same results. He then grabbed several different styles of arrows in 300, 340 and 400 spine and every one shot the same through the paper.
Know to some this might be basic bow tuning knowledge but after all the reading I have done about broadhead tuning almost everything I read was to move the rest. I do remember a few things about the yoke tuning but not enough to make me think that that was my problem. I am crossing my fingers that when I shoot my broadheads tonight that my problems will be solved.
Know to some this might be basic bow tuning knowledge but after all the reading I have done about broadhead tuning almost everything I read was to move the rest. I do remember a few things about the yoke tuning but not enough to make me think that that was my problem. I am crossing my fingers that when I shoot my broadheads tonight that my problems will be solved.
\"Pikemaster\" said:
I will disagree with your pro shop to an extent. Yoke tuning is not the only way to tune Hoyts or any bow with a split yoke but it is a great if not the best way to tune them. The issue is though if your cam has so little lean or too much lean in the wrong direction you will be unable to tune it out with rest movement. I love yoke tuning and it is how I tune but it is not the only way to skin a cat.
As far as the spine issue....a tuned bow will shoot a properly spined arrow and an overspined arrow.....an underspined arrow may shoot field points but it won\'t shoot broadheads. If it does shoot broadheads well that pretty much tells you it is not underspined.
