broadhead tuning

atfrith

New member
May 16, 2014
199
So I\'ve been trying to broadhead tune over the past week or so and it\'s becoming frustrating. My broadheads are consistently hitting to the left of my field points no matter what adjustments I make. I\'ve got it \"close\" finally today, about 2-3 inches left of my field points, but I feel like until I get them pretty darn near perfect I just won\'t be able to sleep :lol:

I\'m shooting a bear attitude, 27.5\" inch draw length, 27.5\" arrows (Easton fmj 340 spine), 100 grain tips, poundage is set at around 65lbs. I\'ve tinkered with the draw weight, both going lower and higher, I can draw and hold comfortably as high as I can set it and anywhere in between but it didn\'t seem to make a huge difference. I\'ve moved the rest right, moved the rest left, you name it.

From what I\'ve read, broadheads hitting left are a sign of too stiff a spine. I have a set of the same arrows but cut to 28\" with 125 grain heads, I\'ve mixed and matched to see what combination got me closest and it was the lighter heads with the shorter shaft, but still no dice.

According to Eastons spine chart I am right on the border between a 340 and a 400 spine, my only other idea is to go buy some 400 arrows and see if that works but figured i\'d see what you guys here think. Oh and i\'m also shooting blazer vanes with a helical.

Sorry if that came out a bit jumbled, I may have missed a few key details. I just came in from a shooting session and i\'m flustered :dk:

Also the broadheads i\'m using are Slick tricks. I was using shuttle T\'s originally but the slick tricks got me closest to my field points.
 
First tighten your limbs snug (count the number of turns until they seat) then back off the same to where you were.
Make sure they are the same revolutions out

Then, Try turning your upper limb bolt out (or in) a half turn and see what that does

What rest are you using?
 
Also
When moving your rest, move it JUST A HAIR!
Just a little bit will do wonders
 
I\'m using a whisker biscuit.

Thanks! Will try that a little later this evening when it\'s not 100 degrees out.

I may also try moving the rest a hair right again and try and make smaller adjustments since it seems pretty close
 
Brad is right on about moving your rest. Make very small adjustments. If you keep having problems check the timing of your cams. If one is off a little it can do the same thing. I just went through this with my bow. I was hitting to the right of my field tips about 3 inches. Turned out my upper cam was out of tune. Shooting great now I got it fixed.
 
Ya know I\'m not sure honestly...

It\'s a single cam bow and that\'s about all I know as far as the \"technical stuff\" goes.

It\'s a little embarrassing saying that as I would love to start learning how to work on the more advanced aspects of my bow. I do not have a press etc. [emoji53]

I did finally get sick of paying the archery shop to refletch my arrows though so I bought an ez-fletch the other day reflectched my own arrows!

I\'ll take a peek in the manual when I get home later.
 
Look at the pic in my avatar.
See that little white line on my cam next to my string?
That is my timing mark.

Your string should be aligned with that.
 
single cam bow you do not have to time. If it was me I would start by shooting it through paper. You want a bullet hole. After that I would french tune. French tune is you put up a plum string on your target and stand 3 yards away, use your top pin and shoot at the string. If you are off adjust your site until you hit the string (follow the arrow with your site). After that go back to 10 yards and use the same pin and shoot the string, If you are off adjust your rest until you hit the string (move your rest towards the string). Everybody is different, I start off with field points then go to broadheads. In my experience if you get your bow tuned in this way and are still having problems with your broadheads it\'s either your form or your grip or both.
good luck
Bum
 
Is the arrow shaft a perfect 90 degrees coming off the string? And is the shaft crossing the Berger hole?

I found a lot of errors go away when I move the rest up/down as well.


Sent via Jedi mind trick.
 
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Try this Anthony!
 
Never got a chance to shoot tonight but plan on trying some of these methods tomorrow. There does not appear to be any kind of timing marks on my single cam.

Archery bum. I did use French tuning to tune the bow to my field tips. Those were shooting great until I started this adventure. From what I\'ve read you are supposed to start with the French tuning and it\'s still common to have to adjust the rest a little bit with broadheads, so I\'ve since moved my rest obviously since my original French tune. I am beginning to think it may be in my grip, I do try and be very consistent and \"by the book\" so to speak in my form. I may start over with another modified French tune tomorrow if some of the things brad mentioned don\'t work.

Elky. My arrow is 90 degrees off the string and crossing the Berger holes, but it\'s not \"covering\" the holes completely. (See picture). My whisker biscuit can\'t be adjusted vertically, only horizontally which is a little frustrating and I\'ll need to adjust my knocking point to change any vertical issues that may arise.

Thanks for all the help guys! I\'ll keep you updated. Any input on the arrow spine?


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Anthony
If you can, look for a \'Hunter\' QAD rest. They are on eBay for ~$50
They are the least expensive, good drop away I have found
I think you will see a huge improvement

Here is one
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"http://www.ebay.com/itm/QAD-Ultra-Rest-Hunter-Drop-Away-Right-Hand-Black-/231502030251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e698a5ab\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">http://www.ebay.com/itm/QAD-Ultra-Rest- ... 35e698a5ab</a><!-- m -->

Forget spine. I doubt if you can be over-spined
 
For my first bow, I used a whisker biscuit. The whisker insert needed to be replace every 12-18 months. It gets stiffer over time.

Also, if I changed shaft size, the whisker needed to be replaced with one that matched the shaft size.

I have no idea if those 2 items would cause an issue with FPs vs BHs.

I only shot out to 40 yards since I had a super slow bow and I did not have a slider sight for longer ranges. I would not like using a whisker biscuit for >40 yards shots since it reduced my fps. With a QAD HDX rest, I still need to use a slider for >40y yards. At least my dismal 215 fps doesn\'t go down another 5 fps by using a whisker biscuit.

Whisker biscuits are great. The arrow never falls off or gets lodged between the riser and the rest. WB definitely gives move piece of mind while out in the woods. Every so often, I consider going back to a WB for the simplicity. I do love the QAD HDX rest. It has never failed me.

Good luck with your tune.
 
\"mtnmutt\" said:
Whisker biscuits are great. The arrow never falls off or gets lodged between the riser and the rest. WB definitely gives move piece of mind while out in the woods. Every so often, I consider going back to a WB for the simplicity. I do love the QAD HDX rest. It has never failed me.

I\'m the same way. Those WBs have been out for ever and people will continue to use them for years to come, but I also LOVE my QAD drop away :D
 
Well I think I got it! Just in the nick of time because my \"block\" target was starting to let broadheads through [emoji50]

I started over from scratch with a French tune and only did a minor rest adjustment and they\'re grouping much better. Need to get some spray foam to fill in the holes in my target before I can safely shoot anymore to double check though.

I just have been making too big of changes before and just created a cycle of chasing my own tail.

I have been debating switching to a drop away...my whisker biscuit is starting to look a bit warn, I\'ll make that decision here in the next few days, I hate making such drastic changes this close to season.
 
A lot of good suggestions so far. If you are able and have a target that will allow you should do walk back tuning this will tell you how far off your rest is. I believe you mentioned to stiff of a spine, you have a arrow that is going to give you the stiff spine that you need. Basically think of arrow spine like a spaghetti noodle(weak spine cooked noodle/stiff spine uncocked noodle). A lot of people don\'t believe in moving your rest and think that just moving the sight will get you tuned but if you do not adjust your rest and when you do like mentioned very minor adjustments will bring your groups together.

Now walk back tuning that I mentioned in the beginning is very simple. You ONLY use your 20yd pin. Start with a target and what I do is take a piece of duck tape and run it down the center of your target, Start at 10yds shoot 1 arrow, move back in 10yd increments usually to 40 or 50yds and see hpw your arrows look. Now I do this using field tips. If you are off left or right move the rest accordingly to get the arrows inline.

With field tips, you should see something like this.
....................
.........o......... (10 yards)
.........o......... (20 yards)
.........o......... (30 yards)
.........o..........(40 yards)

Once you are done with fieldtips you can move to your broadheads and use the same concept.
Here is what it sounds like your bow is doing. If this is how they look you would want to move your rest to the left very slight adjustments and repeat until they are in as straight of a line that you can shoot.

.........x........ (10 yards)
........x......... (20 yards)
.......x.......... (30 yards)
.....x............ (40 yards)
 
Alan: You can correct me if I\'m wrong. But in your bottom example I think you want to move your rest to the right just a hair, not the left.
 

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