Building your own arrows

The chart is saying 300 spine is what I should be shooting. Do you think I would be looking at having to retune my bow? This is just the set up I have had with the bow because it was wait came with it and the previous owner said they shot well
 
Willdorf said:
I was also getting curious about what might happen if I change my spine on my arrows. Right now I am shooting a 400 spine gold tip hunter. In looking at the new arrows I have found out I should be shooting 300 spine. If I switch to the stiffer spine will it affect my tuning or should i just have to move my sights? I am shooting a Mathews creed 29" DL and 70 lbs if that helps. the 400's shoot well out to 50 with G5 montecs. Haven't tried out farther yet.
you will be surprised how little you will need to move things IF your bow is tuned.  maybe some elevations adjustments, that's all.
i can go from 340 to 300 spine arrows and not know the difference.
 
Nothing I can say on here that hasn?t already been said.  I personally enjoy building my own so that I can tune weights by moving components around to bring my arrows as close as possible in overall weight to one another.  Squaring them up, making repairs and or adjustments without taking them in to the shop is in my opinion priceless.  Plus I know that each arrow was made with care.  Not something I can guarantee when another person does it.
 
If you haven't already...download the Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide!  It has just about everything you need to know on building and tuning arrows...as well as bows.  It's my go to resource any time I need to re-tune my set-up.


http://www.wvac.asn.au/docs/TuningGuideEaston.pdf

The best thing about building your own arrows is knowing that they are all done the same.  Consistency matters!
 
It?s something i?ve Always enjoyed doing since my dad showed me how back in the early 80?s. Plus I use 3? feathers in my arrows and they only come with plastic vanes.
 
Kind of an old thread but i won't let anyone cut my arrows. You can make your own arrow saw using a mini-saw from harbor frieght or amazon. I picked up a weston 8,500 rpm with dust collector and arrow spinner for just over a hundred. I've had arrow shafts shipped to me in bundles that were shrink wrapped and some of either end was chipped. I cut both ends which improves straightness anway. Goldtip has stated that a hunter shaft that has both ends equally cut can achieve the straightness of a hunter pro shaft. Then there is the issue of bad cuts: crooked and or chipped. I also have a scale so i can measure the weight of the components in order to achieve an FOC of about 12%  for maximum transfer of kinetic energy.
 
I've been building my own for years now, and most of my buddies bring theirs and their buddies to me as well. Things you need if you want to do it right:
Arrow saw (mine is DIY)
ASD - arrow squaring device (3d printed)
Arrow spinner (not a necessity)
Fletching jig (I love my Arizona EZ mini's)
Fletch glue (I use gorilla super glue with brush applicator)
Insert glue (I use two part epoxy)
Vanes (I use Q2i vanes)

Once you start building your own, you'll never have someone build them again.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 
I use a single jo-jan. I also like the standard bitzenburger. Home made saws need an arrow saw BLADE. I fletched 3 doz arrows this spring and it really didn't take very long. I pretty much use Bohning vanes and wraps. You can make some spiffy lookin personalized arrows. A scale is a must. Every component needs to be weighed to get a proper FOC. Broadheads can be tuned without a spinner, but an arrow spinner makes it easier. A cracked shaft often shows up on a spinner as well. Always want to do a flex check though.

 

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