Been reading/planning/brainstorming how I\'m going to approach my hunt. It seems like there are several schools of thought. I like the way Swede thinks, hunt without calls until you actually learn how to elk hunt. At least I think that is his philosophy and primarily use cow calls. I also like Troy\'s style run and gun and pick at a bull by creating a scenario that plays on his ego. That\'s what I do on public land birds when people think they are call shy and can\'t be called in, so I get that. I just don\'t want to be the guy that you all hear and say I wished he would take his calls and go back to Missouri, what is he thinking. Here\'s what I\'m thinking in case somebody hears me. I\'m hunting 30 August and don\'t expect bulls to be hammering. I will be walking with the wind in my face looking for sign/elk and listening. When I find some sign I think is fresh, find a location a bull has to come into bow range and then back away before doing some soft cow calls. Multiple type calls to sound like more than one cow and possibly one non aggressive bugle and beat and rake a tree. Quietly move to my set up spot and wait about an 45 minutes to an hour. If I should get a bull to respond, that\'s where I will probably screw the whole thing up. I think I have become proficient with my Orange Enranger and can bugle and chuckle and lip bawl really well. I\'m just not sure I will know if I need to get that aggressive or not. Any advice and calling suggestions beside paying Troy and Swede to come guide me?
Calling Scenarios
- Thread starter razorback
- Start date
Steve,
I would remember that if you find that your calling is good [youre encountering some elk] more calling isnt better.
Also,
I think some hunters go to more calling when times get tough.
If that happens, take more time, hunt soft.
Some of the best encounters I have had when I dont see much sign, but the terrain looks good.
A soft bugle or just a few mews.
The next thing you will see is an elk standing there looking at you
You\'re an experienced hunter - a predator of sorts.
Use your woods skills and let things happen
I would remember that if you find that your calling is good [youre encountering some elk] more calling isnt better.
Also,
I think some hunters go to more calling when times get tough.
If that happens, take more time, hunt soft.
Some of the best encounters I have had when I dont see much sign, but the terrain looks good.
A soft bugle or just a few mews.
The next thing you will see is an elk standing there looking at you
You\'re an experienced hunter - a predator of sorts.
Use your woods skills and let things happen
JohnFitzgerald
New member
- Mar 31, 2014
- 1,108
August 30th, I\'d recommend cold calling routines.
Soft cow calling once every 3 minutes can be very effective. However, if that doesn\'t work you can also ramp it up. But if you do get aggressive, you need to sell it to the elk. Make sure you are giving him a reason to come in. So imitate something that you might expect to hear in a herd situation. The same cow call every 3 seconds for minutes isn\'t natural.
You can bugle, chuckle, and lip bawl. What about spike squeal or estrus buzz? Do you have external cow calls? Do you plan to use ground noise?
If you explain your arsenal a little more, I\'d be able to give you some cold calling routines that have worked well for me in the past.
Soft cow calling once every 3 minutes can be very effective. However, if that doesn\'t work you can also ramp it up. But if you do get aggressive, you need to sell it to the elk. Make sure you are giving him a reason to come in. So imitate something that you might expect to hear in a herd situation. The same cow call every 3 seconds for minutes isn\'t natural.
You can bugle, chuckle, and lip bawl. What about spike squeal or estrus buzz? Do you have external cow calls? Do you plan to use ground noise?
If you explain your arsenal a little more, I\'d be able to give you some cold calling routines that have worked well for me in the past.
My scenario is to use multiple bite and blow calls which all sound different (3) to sound like three different cows while making a lot of noise. One of the cows is going to move toward the bull that bugles and makes an estrous buzz. I will then move back several yards to bugle and chuckle as if to say, wait a minute you are my cow stay here. Again move farther forward with the estrous buzz to make the bull think he\'s taking away the cow. Then slam him with a more aggressive bugle (lip bawl) and chuckle. This will bring the cow (estrous buzz back). In between all of this there will be some mews and chirps. I\'ve practiced this quite a bit. My biggest fear is somebody is gonna hear it and think, great another non resident watched a video and bought some calls just what I wanted to hear this morning. :lol:
I hear all kinds of people in the turkey woods trying to do crazy stuff that don\'t know what they\'re doing, I don\'t fault them, they only learn by making mistakes and that\'s what I\'m going to have to do. I like what Brad had to say too. I\'ve got a lot to learn.
I hear all kinds of people in the turkey woods trying to do crazy stuff that don\'t know what they\'re doing, I don\'t fault them, they only learn by making mistakes and that\'s what I\'m going to have to do. I like what Brad had to say too. I\'ve got a lot to learn.
JohnFitzgerald
New member
- Mar 31, 2014
- 1,108
I don\'t think you\'ll hear too many elk bugling August 30. Very early in the rut. The tactic you describe(hooked cow sequence) is great for later in the rut when the cows start coming into estrus. Any chance you can hunt later in the rut?
For early season I\'d recommend playing off the curiosity of elk.
1) Soft cow calls, 4-5 minutes apart. Maybe throw in a spike squeal on occasion.
even more aggressive
2) Soft satellite bugles(ie location bugles), no chuckles, and about 2-3 minutes apart. Don\'t get too loud but give the impression you are new comer asking who else is in the area. Also throw in some braking branches and some other ground noise.
even more aggressive
3) Imitate a restless herd sequence. Use different cow calls so that it sounds like your multiple elk. Change the pace of the calling from very slow and easy to about 3 minutes of some quick calling in repetition. Throw in some quiet lip bawls, with lots of ground noise. Cast a short bugle opposite of the direction you plan to go. Move about 50-80 yards, pausing to give soft cow calls to give the impression that you left the herd. Waiting about 20-30 minutes before moving again. Repeat/restart sequence when you feel you in a new area out of earshot from the first sequence.
And listen to Brad\'s advice on going slow....take your time! Things will develop very quickly and you might just have elk come in silently. Be Ready!
My 2-cents!
For early season I\'d recommend playing off the curiosity of elk.
1) Soft cow calls, 4-5 minutes apart. Maybe throw in a spike squeal on occasion.
even more aggressive
2) Soft satellite bugles(ie location bugles), no chuckles, and about 2-3 minutes apart. Don\'t get too loud but give the impression you are new comer asking who else is in the area. Also throw in some braking branches and some other ground noise.
even more aggressive
3) Imitate a restless herd sequence. Use different cow calls so that it sounds like your multiple elk. Change the pace of the calling from very slow and easy to about 3 minutes of some quick calling in repetition. Throw in some quiet lip bawls, with lots of ground noise. Cast a short bugle opposite of the direction you plan to go. Move about 50-80 yards, pausing to give soft cow calls to give the impression that you left the herd. Waiting about 20-30 minutes before moving again. Repeat/restart sequence when you feel you in a new area out of earshot from the first sequence.
And listen to Brad\'s advice on going slow....take your time! Things will develop very quickly and you might just have elk come in silently. Be Ready!
My 2-cents!
When turkey hunting...2 year old gobblers will come running and make you look like a rock star. Are there a particular age class of bulls out there that behave the same way and vulnerable to a certain scenario? If so at what time of the rut? I\'ll be there at least until ML season starts.
JohnFitzgerald
New member
- Mar 31, 2014
- 1,108
Young bulls(rags horn and spikes) and an occasional cow will most likely come into early season cold calling tactics. If your lucky, a bigger bull.
Later towards rut you can switch to tactics that threaten the dominance of herd bulls like the hooked cow sequence. Corey Jacobsen talks about a very simple late season tactic. Someone correct me if I\'m wrong, but first he locate bugles to find a bull. After that he moves in in very close and cow calls. When the bull bugles to call the unseen cow, Corey interrupts the bugle with one of his own. I\'ve used a similar tactic in the past. The hard part is getting close enough without getting to close. :crazy:
Other late season sequences that I\'ve use are the Battling Bull Sequence and the Restless Herd Extreme version.
Lot of good tactics out there to choose from. Just remember one very important thing about calling. Don\'t call elk from a position where they can get a distant look and see that there\'s no elk stand there.
My 2-cents and worth nothing more!
Later towards rut you can switch to tactics that threaten the dominance of herd bulls like the hooked cow sequence. Corey Jacobsen talks about a very simple late season tactic. Someone correct me if I\'m wrong, but first he locate bugles to find a bull. After that he moves in in very close and cow calls. When the bull bugles to call the unseen cow, Corey interrupts the bugle with one of his own. I\'ve used a similar tactic in the past. The hard part is getting close enough without getting to close. :crazy:
Other late season sequences that I\'ve use are the Battling Bull Sequence and the Restless Herd Extreme version.
Lot of good tactics out there to choose from. Just remember one very important thing about calling. Don\'t call elk from a position where they can get a distant look and see that there\'s no elk stand there.
My 2-cents and worth nothing more!
Glacier Country
New member
- Nov 13, 2013
- 177
\">>>---WW---->\" said:
Bill I also have Jim Horns cd some where, I found his cd aggressive elk calling techniques. Anyhow these cd\'s are kinda hard to come by anymore. I guess
Maybe you can give Razorback the cliff note version.
I think it was ...setup in a likely place then cow call slow then 3 minutes later do another set of cow calls and increase the intensity. Something like that.
Maybe you can expound and give some more detail please. I usually go after the 10th so I can bugle with them. Thanks Troy
OK Troy, here is my version of the Silent calling method.
\"What is the silent calling method\"? So for those that may not know, I\'ll try to explain.
Silent calling is just another name for what some others may refer to as cold calling. I refer to it as silent calling because most of the time, the elk come in to the calls without making a sound. Many times, they actually sneek in for a peek at what or who is making the sounds. So, you need to be on your toes all the time. Many times the silent calling sequence/setup can go on for as long as an hour. So I might add here that a good comfortable position is desireable. I like to find something like a log or rock to sit on as I plan on being there for awhile.
I\'ll try to explain the sequence as best I can. And then I\'ll show how you can switch things around to your advantage if need be.
First of all you need some good background cover so what ever you call in has to look for you. I\'m sure we all understand what that means. Once you have your setup established, the normal way would be to start out with some general herd talk. This would be normal cow/calf talk. Then toward the end of the cow/calf stuff you would throw in either a hyper cow call or an estrus buzz and follow that with one short hi pitched young bull bugle. The whole sequence should last maybe 30 seconds. Don\'t over do it! Then after that you can wait for at least 5 minutes and go throught the whole sequence again. Keep this up for at least an hour at each setup location.
My version of it is to think outside the box and don\'t be afraid to switch things around. For instance, start out with a location bugle from a small bull. Wait about 30 seconds or so before you go with the herd talk sequence. This serves a dual purpose. #1, you may get lucky and have a bull answer and you can scrap the whole deal and go after him. And #2, if you don\'t hear a response you can continue with the the whole silent calling routine and stay put right where you are at. Remember, this is the early part of the season and the bulls may still be quiet.
The whole idea is to not go with the very same sequence every time. Sometimes I only do the herd talk with no hyper or buzz stuff. And sometimes no bugle at all. And if I do bugle, I never do it more than once. Remember, no chuckles or grunts and try to sound like a small bull when you do it. Nothing fancy or intimidating.
The reason for the small bull sounds is because I usually use this method in the early part of the season. At that time, as a general rule, 9 times out of 10, there will be only smaller spikes and raghorns hanging with the herd.
Hope this helps to explain it for you and others. Don\'t be afraid to think outside the box once in awhile and switch things up. I forgot to mention that sometimes I\'ll wait as long as 5 minutes or so in between sequences. Just don\'t go hog wild and over do it. Make it sound real! Also during the waiting period between call sequences, you may want to throw in maybe a single mew or chirp once in awhile just to let anything that might be slipping in think the herd is still in the area.
\"What is the silent calling method\"? So for those that may not know, I\'ll try to explain.
Silent calling is just another name for what some others may refer to as cold calling. I refer to it as silent calling because most of the time, the elk come in to the calls without making a sound. Many times, they actually sneek in for a peek at what or who is making the sounds. So, you need to be on your toes all the time. Many times the silent calling sequence/setup can go on for as long as an hour. So I might add here that a good comfortable position is desireable. I like to find something like a log or rock to sit on as I plan on being there for awhile.
I\'ll try to explain the sequence as best I can. And then I\'ll show how you can switch things around to your advantage if need be.
First of all you need some good background cover so what ever you call in has to look for you. I\'m sure we all understand what that means. Once you have your setup established, the normal way would be to start out with some general herd talk. This would be normal cow/calf talk. Then toward the end of the cow/calf stuff you would throw in either a hyper cow call or an estrus buzz and follow that with one short hi pitched young bull bugle. The whole sequence should last maybe 30 seconds. Don\'t over do it! Then after that you can wait for at least 5 minutes and go throught the whole sequence again. Keep this up for at least an hour at each setup location.
My version of it is to think outside the box and don\'t be afraid to switch things around. For instance, start out with a location bugle from a small bull. Wait about 30 seconds or so before you go with the herd talk sequence. This serves a dual purpose. #1, you may get lucky and have a bull answer and you can scrap the whole deal and go after him. And #2, if you don\'t hear a response you can continue with the the whole silent calling routine and stay put right where you are at. Remember, this is the early part of the season and the bulls may still be quiet.
The whole idea is to not go with the very same sequence every time. Sometimes I only do the herd talk with no hyper or buzz stuff. And sometimes no bugle at all. And if I do bugle, I never do it more than once. Remember, no chuckles or grunts and try to sound like a small bull when you do it. Nothing fancy or intimidating.
The reason for the small bull sounds is because I usually use this method in the early part of the season. At that time, as a general rule, 9 times out of 10, there will be only smaller spikes and raghorns hanging with the herd.
Hope this helps to explain it for you and others. Don\'t be afraid to think outside the box once in awhile and switch things up. I forgot to mention that sometimes I\'ll wait as long as 5 minutes or so in between sequences. Just don\'t go hog wild and over do it. Make it sound real! Also during the waiting period between call sequences, you may want to throw in maybe a single mew or chirp once in awhile just to let anything that might be slipping in think the herd is still in the area.
Glacier Country
New member
- Nov 13, 2013
- 177
\">>>---WW---->\" said:
Ok Thanks Bill. That is some good stuff right there Guys. This whole thread is loaded with good info.
So for 30 Aug-12 Sep, no need to do my Troy impression. That\'s a shame I had a 3 hour drive to Fort Leonard Wood this week. I had his clip playing on repeat with my Orange Enrager. You know how when you\'re singin along with George Strait you think you sound just as good. That was me. My windshield and dash looked like an Angus bull had been driving my truck though, I spit all over my dash and windshield and had a sore throat by the time I got there.
Seriously though on the cold/silent method. Is there any chance I can call up something other than a rag or spike? Not trying to kill a monster just something with 5 points and I would really like to hear him bugle up close.
This method was what I was planning on when I wasn\'t hearing elk, my method I described was if I had one bugling. I know I have a lot to learn and experience is going to be the best teacher.
Seriously though on the cold/silent method. Is there any chance I can call up something other than a rag or spike? Not trying to kill a monster just something with 5 points and I would really like to hear him bugle up close.
This method was what I was planning on when I wasn\'t hearing elk, my method I described was if I had one bugling. I know I have a lot to learn and experience is going to be the best teacher.
Below is a short video of a guy calling in a bull and getting a shot
I dont who it is or what the story is. Not sure if he even recovered the bull. [Iffy shot?]
But it does show how to do a small bull bugle, cow call and be quiet when the bull bugles back so he comes looking.
Some things to notice:
He took his quiver off
Has his pack on
He moves around to get into position
Draws when he needs to
Thoughts?
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xnFDA1Z04I&index=2&list=LLmVPL62_QvuYP8RJ_XhIo0g[/youtube]
I dont who it is or what the story is. Not sure if he even recovered the bull. [Iffy shot?]
But it does show how to do a small bull bugle, cow call and be quiet when the bull bugles back so he comes looking.
Some things to notice:
He took his quiver off
Has his pack on
He moves around to get into position
Draws when he needs to
Thoughts?
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xnFDA1Z04I&index=2&list=LLmVPL62_QvuYP8RJ_XhIo0g[/youtube]
timberland
New member
- Aug 27, 2015
- 471
also just click on the title above the vid.
Here\'s some things I observed. He shot awefully quick. I\'m a little picky about my shot angles. It mentioned that he had called his cows away. I have called a gobblers hens away and then called the gobbler in. When I have done that though I just normally flush the hens if there\'s enough distance between them and the gobbler so they can\'t circle back around. What keeps the cows from just going back to the bull or going past the hunter and smelling him?
Brad you mentioned he took his quiver off? I always shoot with mine on, is there a reason you should take it off?
That looked like a nice bull responding for September 1st, is that not normal?
Brad you mentioned he took his quiver off? I always shoot with mine on, is there a reason you should take it off?
That looked like a nice bull responding for September 1st, is that not normal?
I usually take my quiver off when doing a call setup.
It depends if you are on your knees or not and if your nocks will be in the dirt when you rest your cam on the ground.
Nothing worse to grab another arrow and the nock is full of dirt.
But I just like the mobility of the bow without the quiver.
And,
You never know when a nice bull will respond!
It depends if you are on your knees or not and if your nocks will be in the dirt when you rest your cam on the ground.
Nothing worse to grab another arrow and the nock is full of dirt.
But I just like the mobility of the bow without the quiver.
And,
You never know when a nice bull will respond!
