Mechanical broadheads

sojourner65

New member
Mar 24, 2014
122
Was wondering your opinions on them. I started using Spitfire\'s last year and took a button buck with one using my crossbow, but this year I\'m back to a compound. They fly exactly like the field points.
 
for deer size stuff they are great. archers choice videos on bear uses spitfires an they work fine. i would not use them on elk size stuff though. just do to penetration
 
I know guys that use g5 T3 expandables for elk with good success, but like any BH, shot placement is key.
I would tend to think that a good COC head would treat you better on a marginal hit than an expandable would tho
 
I\'ve never used them on big game.
My preference has always been for a fixed blade head and a tuned bow.
That being said, my youngest son who was 15 last fall shot his bull with a 2 blade Rage head.
The bull only went 40 yards after the shot and was down.
His bow was set for 65lbs, arrow was Beman ICS 400 28\".
Shot placement was key as it is with any broadhead.
 
Like Lew said ... shot placement is key ... and so is \"a tuned bow\".

Mechanicals are the answer to what should be a non-problem. If your FPBHs don\'t fly with your field points, you should tune your bow, not go to a mechanical. To do so in that situation would risk poor penetration.

Mechanicals would have an advantage with long shooting ranges in the wind.

That said, if the bow is tuned, they should work great. It\'s just hard to know if that bow is tuned to its best potential without the FPBHs.
 
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw\">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw</a><!-- m -->

Check this out in order to get properly tuned! :upthumb: :wave:
 
\">>>---WW---->\" said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw

Check this out in order to get properly tuned! :upthumb: :wave:

Ok I tried this. Broadheads (Slick Trick 100\'s) flew to center BUT the field points are a good 4 inches right, at 20 yds! At 40 yds they will not even hit the target block.
 
\"sojourner65\" said:
\">>>---WW---->\" said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw

Check this out in order to get properly tuned! :upthumb: :wave:

Ok I tried this. Broadheads (Slick Trick 100\'s) flew to center BUT the field points are a good 4 inches right, at 20 yds! At 40 yds they will not even hit the target block.

you a lefty bow shooter?
 
Gotta sight-in the FPs first ... FPs need to be in the center.

Then get your FBBHs out and see where they hit.

(My main problem with tuning is patience. You can\'t do it when tired, or with wind, and you can\'t do it when you get in a hurry ... that eliminates a lot of my day!)
 
The field points were hitting center before. Am I missing something on this? :?: If I move the arrow rest one line to the right, to move FBBH\'s impact to the right, why wouldn\'t the FP\'s also move right?
RH shooter.
 
This is going to sound insane. But most of my broad head troubles cleared up when I fixed up and down issues. Arrow thru the Berger and arrow 90 off the string.


Sent via Jedi mind trick.
 
\"cnelk\" said:
What rest are you using?

It\'s a Rip Cord SOS, left/right and up/down adjustments can be made. Tru Glo sight, same adjustments can be made. Part of my problem is I\'m 2 1/2 months removed from left shoulder surgery and I can only shoot 3 -4 arrows at a time. So extensive shooting is not possible yet. :train:
 
Have you spin tested each arrow?
Or switched field points and BH to the same arrow?

When Im tuning, I will only use 1 arrow.
I will shoot with a field point to determine POI then switch & put a BH on the same arrow.
 
The arrow on the left is the FBBH, on the right the FP, 20 yds. This is representative of how the shoot went, about a dozen arrows. Thought it might have been an arrow difference but both are Gold Tip\'s, same model.

005.jpg
 
If your form is poor, mainly your grip on the bow , this will be accentuated by a fbbh. I\'ve seen very accurate shooters with fp but fall apart with fbbh because of poor form. One way to tell if your grip is affecting the bow is to see how close the arrow shaft is to your cables at rest and at full draw. The distance should be about the same. Also you can clench and relax your grip hand and ypu will see how the bow moves in your grip. Remember, you should be able to wiggle all your fingers at full draw. Just sometthoughts
 
\"cnelk\" said:
I think your bow may be out of time

:lol:

Yes, I can\'t say I have great form, last couple of years I\'ve used a x-bow exclusively. I\'ll take it back to the tech where I bought the bow and go over it with him. I have 4 months to get it right. :think:
 

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