Mechanical broadheads

[Colorado_Lew]

Timing of the cam is what Brad is referring to.
All compound bows have timing that needs to be done, including the single cam bows.
It is much more crucial with dual cams, but nonetheless critical for single cams.
From the above picture I would say you have more than rest issues. You need to correct your form, since the broadhead is low and left. Also did your bow tech work with you to paper tune the bow? That should have been done before you left the shop. Then you can work on getting FP and BH to impact the same.
The Easton Tuning guide would be helpful to understand your arrow impact.

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[cnelk]

I think your bow may be out of time

Brad ... what do you mean \"out of time\"?

John
Most newer compounds have timing marks on the cam.
They can be to indicate limb position or string position, depending on manufacturer.

 

[elky McElkerson]

Was this bow paper tuned? Remind me. What bow is this?


Sent via Jedi mind trick.

 

[F M]

Last year I could not get two arrows to hit anywhere close to each other also. I found out that the cam stop on my lower cam had fallen out and was letting my lower cam over rotate. Got the stop replaced and it shot like a new bow again. This is a Hoyt bow but timing on any bow is important.

 

[sojourner65]

Elite Answer, I\'m taking it back to the tech next week.

 

[elky McElkerson]

Elite Answer, I\'m taking it back to the tech next week.

Great bow. I shoot a energy35.

Cables thru the slide guide correctly? No fletch contact?

Good luck.


Sent via Jedi mind trick.

 

[sojourner65]

Feel like I\'m getting closer. I decided to use a mechanical (Grim Reapers) to less complicate things. Made some sight and rest adjustments. Also reduced spine
weight to 300, shooting 54 lbs.
30 yds, BH in center, FP just right.

40 yds, first effort BH is just to right, FP clipped center.

I\'m less than 3 months removed from left shoulder surgery and still building strength.