New to bow hunting, help!

220yotekiller

New member
Jul 11, 2018
2
Hey guys, I am an experenced rifle elk hunter (for cows at least), but l'm a complete newbie with a bow and l'm going to try my hand at it this year. l have a cow elk tag and i have 2 springs where l can set up a blind. l know that elk are using both springs, so finding them isn't a problem at least. l have a Quest G5 bow with a 70 lb draw, l am confident out to 45 yards but l do practice out to 65. My uncle recommended that l go with cut on contact broad heads and l was wondering what brands are good. 
 
Welcome to the site 220yotekiller!  :upthumb:


You asked about cut on contact heads so I will answer to that.  I really like the NAP spitfires.
I've killed a few deer with them and they are mean.


I personally don't use them on elk, but you didn't ask about fixed, so I'll keep it on your topic!




Good luck to you this year. It sounds like you've got them patterned already and I can't wait to see how you do. :upthumb:
 
Ok so new questian, What is the difference between cut on contact and fixed blades, what kind do you use on elk?
 
220yotekiller said:
Ok so new questian, What is the difference between cut on contact and fixed blades, what kind do you use on elk?

You'll find there is a lot of conversation out there about "what type of broadhead to use on elk... fixed of mechanical".

I personally use fixed heads for elk and for most of my deer hunts. Every now and then I'll use the NAP spitfire on deer.

I like fixed broadheads because I don't have to worry about additional failures that may occur during my stalk & kill.

Some of the cut on contact designed blades are held in place with bands, collars, clips or other items. There is a minor possibility that those holding mechanisms can fail to open, open prematurely, etc. I'll give you an example. I was once trying out a rage head and was stalking in on a deer. As I was navigating through some brush my mechanical got caught on a branch and it inadvertently opened my blade.

The failures that I mentioned are minimal and not always the case, they have really come a long way, but I just like cutting that out completely. With fixed heads I don't have to worry about it opening or failing.

I really like Shuttle T locks and the Exodus fixed broadheads.


There is lots of data out there and hopefully some more people add to this. I know a few people who hunt solely with cut on contact heads and they kill elk every year. I am not knocking it in any way, I just personally prefer fixed on elk.


 
Welcome from MS! Please go back to rifle hunting so.  :)  Just kidding.


I use a 125 grain fixed Muzzy 3 blade for everything from elk to deer to hogs. People way overthink this. It's definitely more about shot placement. Of course we all want a broadhead that will kill an animal on a questionable shot when it does happen. I've never had any problem with the Muzzy's doing that. Good luck this fall.
 
220yotekiller said:
Ok so new questian, What is the difference between cut on contact and fixed blades, what kind do you use on elk?


A cut on contact head is typically a fixed blade head. There are some mechanicals out there that cut on contact as well, but most folks refer to fixed blade heads as "cut on contact". What it's supposed to mean is the tip of the broadhead is part of a blade that starts cutting. Either way, I'm guessing you were referring to fixed blade heads.


When it comes to fixed blade heads, there are a ton of options and none of them are wrong. Pick one and give it a shot. There are a ton of examples of them in the Elk101 store if you want to take a look. Personally, I have tried Wac 'Em's and Slick Tricks. I didn't like the Wac 'Em's because of how goofy they are to try to put together (pain in the rear end). Slick Trick's have been good, but frankly the blades don't seem to be very tough. The handful that I've set aside for practice look pretty bad after a couple of years. You can buy replacement blades for them though.


This year I am considering the G5 Montec. I love the simplicity of the design, you don't have to deal with putting a bunch of pieces together, and the sharpening process looks as easy as you can get.


Again, you can do some research but the best bet is to pick one and give it a shot. If you don't like something about it, you can always switch. But the bottom line is they will all kill an elk if you do your part and put the arrow in the right place.
 
220yotekiller said:
Ok so new questian, What is the difference between cut on contact and fixed blades, what kind do you use on elk?

cohunter14 replied while I was looking for pics.

Cut on contact broadheads have a blade at the tip the starts cutting immediately on contact.

A chisel tip has a duller point that takes a bit of force to poke through a hide to get to the blades.

A cut on contact usually penetrates further through flesh where as a chisel tip can bust bone.

Some chisel tips are sharpened to aid in poking through flesh with less force.

I use Montec broadheads because they are strong and I can sharpen them on a diamond stone and reuse them. I have shot through the shoulder blade of deer with them without any damage.

Most any sharp strong head will do the job if you hit your mark.

Remember that Stone worked for many years.
 
I've taken elk with both Slick Trick and Montec G5's.  I switched over to the Montecs a couple of years ago for the same reasons cohunter14 mentioned.  Simple design and I like to sharpen/touch up the blades before hunting season and you can do that with the G5s a lot easier than the Slick Tricks.  No complaints with the Slicks though.  I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

Good luck this year.
 
220, there's a broadhead thread just 4 or 5 posts below this one that has a lot of people's preference so suggest taking a look.


Personally, I use Magnus Stinger 2 blades in 100 gr.  Easy to sharpen and have a lifetime replacement warranty(used on 2 heads and no questions asked, got new blades sent).



 

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