Paper Tuning Question

cohunter14

cohunter14

Administrator
Jul 10, 2017
5,345
I have a random question for some of you bow experts...I have been shooting my bow with some cheap Walmart arrows while waiting to order my Gold Tips. During that time, I have paper tuned my bow and it seems to be spot on, both at close range and out to 15 yards. I just got my Gold Tips in and started tinkering. I cut one to size and got it all set minus putting the fletching on. I decided to paper test it real quick just to make sure I got a bullet hole and, to my surprise, I am getting a good rip to the left of the hole. I decided to double check my bow and shot my cheap arrow through it and it was still perfect. Any idea what could be causing this?

These arrows have very similar spines to them (340 vs 342), and are cut to the exact same length. Based on what I\'ve read, a rip to the left would mean I need to move my rest, I have a yoke tune or timing problem, or the spine is too weak. I just recently tuned the timing on my bow and with these arrows being very similar spine-wise, that would lead me to believe I need to move my rest. But would that be correct considering my other arrows work just fine? According to Gold Tips chart, these arrows should be the perfect spine and, if anything, I would need to go with a weaker spine not stronger.

Thanks for any ideas or input!
 
1 - Tune to the GoldTips [forget the other arrows]

2 - Move your rest - EVER SO SLIGHTLY! Many make the mistake of moving the rest too much. It only takes a little bit.

3 - Paper tune with more than 1 arrow.
 
Thanks Brad! I just wanted to make sure I wasn\'t crazy by thinking I needed to move the rest a bit based on the arrow. I will try to get a few more arrows to work with. I just didn\'t want to cut a bunch of them and glue them up before seeing if this would work. But with the tear I am getting, I\'m sure it would happen with other arrows as well.

I guess I never realized that different arrows, although similar, will need different settings with the bow. Learn something new every day!
 
Derek
It could even be the difference in nocks on the two different arrow types
 
So I have tinkered for the last couple hours and no matter what I do, I am still getting the tear left of the hole. Could I just need a stronger spine? Here is the Gold Tip arrow chart. I\'m at 64lbs and 30\"...

Gold%20Tip-2015%20Chart%20315FPS2.jpg
 
I assume you have read this?
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15</a><!-- m -->

I would make sure your limb bolts are turned out the same.

1 - Count how many turns it takes to seat them in your limb pockets
2 - Then back them out the same amount of turns or partial turns to where you were, making sure the turns are equal
3 - Shoot a few arrows and see

If still an issue,

4 - Then try reducing your poundage by 1 turn, then shoot.
5 - Then turn in 1/2 turn and shoot again.

Ultimately I like to see where my bow shoots best at a certain poundage, very similar to reloading a rifle cartridge.
 
Check your vanes for contact. If the cheap arrows are fletched with low profile vanes and the GTs are Blazers you might be getting rest contact. Check that vane alignment is correct so that vanes will clear the rest.

If the above stuff does work....rotate your nock 120 degrees and try that.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
\"cnelk\" said:
I assume you have read this?
<!-- m --><a class=\"postlink\" href=\"https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15\" onclick=\"window.open(this.href);return false;\">https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15</a><!-- m -->

I would make sure your limb bolts are turned out the same.

1 - Count how many turns it takes to seat them in your limb pockets
2 - Then back them out the same amount of turns or partial turns to where you were, making sure the turns are equal
3 - Shoot a few arrows and see

If still an issue,

4 - Then try reducing your poundage by 1 turn, then shoot.
5 - Then turn in 1/2 turn and shoot again.

Ultimately I like to see where my bow shoots best at a certain poundage, very similar to reloading a rifle cartridge.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brad! I have checked the limb bolts and have done everything Gold Tip recommends except reducing draw weight at this point. I might try that, but I\'d prefer not to if I don\'t have to.

\"Bowfreak\" said:
Check your vanes for contact. If the cheap arrows are fletched with low profile vanes and the GTs are Blazers you might be getting rest contact. Check that vane alignment is correct so that vanes will clear the rest.

If the above stuff does work....rotate your nock 120 degrees and try that.
Click to expand...

Mark, the new arrows don\'t have vanes on them yet, they are just the shafts. The old arrows had Blazers. I did try rotating the knock as well, but that didn\'t seem to help.

The best I\'m able to do it about a 1\"-2\" tear at a couple of feet which turns into 4\"+ at about 12 feet. No matter what I do, I cannot get the tear to go right of the hole. Considering the bow shot these other arrows perfect at both close at extended ranges, it is really making me think it has to do with the spine. Maybe I should just stick with my cheap Walmart arrows! :lol:
 
OK. No biggie then. I will post later I am splitting wood right now. I didn\'t see it above or missed it but what bow are you shooting?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
\"Bowfreak\" said:
OK. No biggie then. I will post later I am splitting wood right now. I didn\'t see it above or missed it but what bow are you shooting?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hoyt Nitrum 34, 30.5\" DL, 64lbs.
 
Wow!
Thats a BIG tear. I was thinking it was just a little tear.

You definitely got something major going on.
I think if it was spine related, you would see a left tear with each arrow.

Welcome to the intricate world of archery :)
 
\"cnelk\" said:
Your rest is a QAD yes?

Are you using the TL1 prong?
Click to expand...

Yes, TL1. I just measured the tears and the biggest are 3\" and not 4\", but still significant.

I sprayed my old arrows with athletes foot powder to make sure I wasn\'t getting contact with the rest. This, along with the rest of the tuning, was done by a family friend who used to shoot competitively and is very knowledgeable.

What I can\'t figure out is why the older arrows worked great and these Gold Tips are so far off. I think the Gold Tips are quite a bit lighter, but not sure if that would cause it. I\'ll weigh them in a bit if I get a chance.

The other weird thing is that the old arrows tuned great before I even cut them to length. They were 31 1/8\" originally, now 30\".

I have gone back and returned the rest to where it was at originally and the old arrows still tune perfect... :?:
 
I could certainly pull the fletching on one of them and check the results if it would help?
 
Yes,
Your baselines should be the same [bareshafts]

And this is easy to try too
 

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Update: I pulled the fletching off of one of the older arrows and I am getting the same result as the Gold Tip with a tear to the left. I have confirmed center shot and the yoke appears to be tuned correct.
 
Are you using 125 gr tips? If so you might need a stiffer spine. Try a 100 gr tip and see if that improves things.
 
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