New To Elk Hunting

The environmental factors alone make 100 yd shots on live animals dicey at best for anyone...I know it can be done, I know people do it, but it's not for me... I practice at 100 and beyond, can hold my own, but at that distance a step or a twig can mean guts and lost animal... it can at any distance but chances increase "x" fold the further you get. I don't mean any disrespect to these individuals but I do question the ethics behind long distance shooting in general but specifically archery.

"Some people pride themselves in how far they can shoot, I pride myself in how close I can get" - John Stephens
 
I get you forsure. When I used to whitetail hunt I felt confident out to 50. Thats all the pins I had. But I wanted to get the deer inside of thirty because I did not want to take any chances because things happen. Im all for killing animals but its not something to mess around with and take lightly. Its important to take the steps you can to make a good clean kill. I feel like pulling the trigger at 100 is not doing that. But like I said I think there is alot of people that I think have no business shooting an animal at 30 and I would look down on them way before those guys at 100.
 
All I can say is you keep watching YouTube and I'll keep my bow tuned and shooting my vipertricks. Why are you even on here if YouTube has all the answers? Keep doing what you're doing and you'll keep getting what you're getting. Have a great day and good luck.
 
lcgordon711 said:
Also I want a head that has a good practice tip or blades because what good is it if you cant practice with it.
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I switched from Slick Tricks to Montecs last year for that very reason.  You can buy a package of 3 practice heads and not have to sacrifice one or two to practice with.  Plus the real heads are ridiculously easy to sharpen.  Downside is they are a little noisey, but I can live with that.
 
Thanks Wyo. I have seen those they look to be super close to the real thing. Those are the heads the guy I bought my bow from used. I will probably try a few heads just to see.
 
Wyo67 said:
Downside is they are a little noisey, but I can live with that.
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somewhere, someone a while back broke down the science behind this.... might have been youtube or maybe just a blog.... I can't remember but the ultimate point was that even though this is a very loud/noisy broadhead when cutting air... the noise is only a player if you're standing behind or to the side of it while airborn. I'm butchering the overall science behind it but long story short an intended target won't notice and is much more likely to jump your string than hear the broadhead.... standing behind or to the side, it's noisy.... what ever is infront should be dead before it hears the arrow
 
...much more likely to jump your string than hear the broadhead.... standing behind or to the side, it's noisy.... what ever is infront should be dead before it hears the arrow
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Completely agree.  Hopefully, the bull will be focused on the callers activity and never know what hit him!
 
Podcast's have a tendency to jump around go from topic to topic without a lot of clarification that the subject has actually changed. Tim and Aron are a lot more technical than I am or want to be. I do a lot of things they talked about in that particular podcast. My interpretation based on what I personally know and having listened to both of them multiple times is this.

A bow that is paper tuned at 3 yards isn't completely tuned, for me, I always check it at a second distance and compare the angle of impact and depth of entry on the target for each arrow. Any out of the ordinary circumstance at the point of release is going to be exaggerated more at distance. A 2" cutting broadhead is going to "help" a poorly placed shot more than a 1 1/4 cutting head. More forgiving.

A properly tuned bow, arrows tuned as well, a properly mounted site(all 3 axis), with fixed or mechanical heads, whatever the shooter is off on release, that arrow is going where it's going. The point of impact is going to be off the same with either one. The mechanical is not going to change it's flight path to correct anything the shooter is off with.

If your ability with both mechanicals and fixed is a 3 inch circle at 60 yards, everything is equal. If your mechanical group is 2 inches at 60 and fixed 6 inches at 60 everything is not equal. Your mechanical head is going to give you more forgiveness at a 60 yard steep downhill off balance shot than a fixed will.

Not trying to put words in anyone's mouth or correct anyone. Just my opinion.
 
Sorry for the late post on this lcgordon.  Good questions.
I sleep in a trailer in a campground 90% of the time.  I hunt hard and tag a bull 100% of the time.  I know the country intimately, though.  Gear wise, lightweight clothes in layers are a must.  If you got some coin to spend, go for good footwear and a good pack.  The clothes are important don't get me wrong, but your feet and back are more important.  I would recommend an expandable backpack.  Yeah, I have the $500 pack from Kuiu, but I was with you regarding price.  Ultimately I look at the expandable (meat shelf) type packs as 2 packs in 1.  Or you can buy a nice $150 frame pack AND a $150 day pack. I elected the 1 pack route.  Good Boots- think Meindl, Lowa, Soloman, Kenetrek.  I don't know what works for your feet.  Otherwise, learn how to call with Corey here at online course.  And, hit roehuntingresources.com.  And ironmind hunting.  These guys are dialed in.  Have a plan A-Z, as odds are you'll need all of them. 
Broadheads wise, go with your gut. I've killed them with Montec, Ulmer Edge, Muzzy, Strikers, and Rage. If I could give you some advice regarding mechanical- 1.5inch cut. Pass throughs.  2 inch I wouldn't think that you'd consistently get it. Just my thoughts.  All heads are good but stay on the conservative side on Mechanical.  I will be shooting mechs this year again. Shot strikers last year.  Mechs in 2014, Muzzy in 2013. I'm a little crazy.  But they all work fine.  Don't let the trolls worry you. I've got better blood trails with double beveled blades FYI both mech and fixed. 
 
Hey lcgordon,


Late to the party here as well.


Won't jump into the deep end on the fixed vs. mech debate, maybe just dip a toe in saying I shoot fixed blades (Solids, Shuttle T's, Terminal T's) for big boned animals like elk. There are several reasons for that, PM me if you're interested.


Two things I'll comment on:
1) Don't underestimate the value of a good bow tune. It's probably the most criticalelement of the non-human components of executing a good shot. Most well made and balanced heads will shoot great out of a well tuned bow (weigh and spin-test your heads!).


2) You mentioned you're clocking your arrows at 310fps. Unless you are pulling 80lbs with a 30"+ draw length, I believe your arrows are significantly underweight. For elk, I'd suggest finding an arrow build that lands you around 265-285fps, higher speeds w/BH's tend to accentuate errors in form even from a well tuned bow. I think you'll find better flight characteristics, wind deflection, momentum, KE and more passthroughs by bumping up your total arrow weight. If you can get them into the 11-13% FOC range, even better.


Cheers!
 
Hi Guys thanks for the reply's with the info it is greatly appreciated. Regarding the gear I have picked up the kuiu icon pro 5200 and like it so far. I also got a pair of salomon quests. I like them both. My bow I got from CL its an mathews mr6 set at about 80lbs. I need to check it I backed it off just a tad from the peak 84lbs. The speed numbers were from the guy I bought it from he said it was 310-311 or so. The arrows are Easton axis they say 10.7gpi and I have a 28in draw and 100gr tips. I will be building my own arrows before the season sometime. I need more than just the 5 I have now.


As far as tuning goes I will try my hardest to tune correctly. My comment was regarding that I may not get it quite perfect.


Ive been training as much as I can in the gym and with a pack. I also shoot almost every day so I cant wait.
 
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